Charlotte Taylor Fall 10

I'm enamored with Central St. Martins grad Charlotte Taylor's debut fall 10 collection. Inspired in part by grannies & penguins, the collection is fun & visibly well crafted. In tow with a wealth of diverse knowledge she acquired while working at Luella, Charlotte immersed herself in every aspect of producing a collection from beginning to end. In Oct. 09 she stared a blog that could best be described as "the emerging designers how-to-handbook for startup" chronicling her intense journey in detail with each post giving a firsthand view of the process she continues to endure.

Taylor executed replicating the penguin's shape in some of her silhouettes superbly. And the bright yellow & blue penguin head scarf is surely going to be a hit amongst fashionistas. There is just the right amount of cohesiveness but still a generous variation to choose from. She's essentially created a line that is a mix of timeless shapes with her unique infusions of modernity. Another brilliant approach for Taylors emerging line, is the fact that she took into account making the price-points accessible to everyone. There's no doubt that Ms. Taylor is a well-rounded talent that will continue to successfully progress in the industry. Please visit Charlotte's blog as she continues to chronicle her on going  journey as an emerging designer, even after her debut at London Fashion Week!

Fresh N Fierce: Study NY S/S10

www.4equalsides.com/

Study NY is a new sustainable line created by designer Tara St. James in Brooklyn NY!

NN- You've been in the "game"(fashion industry) for a while now, can you give us a brief timeline of your career from beginning to present?


TS- I started in the industry about 12 years ago after graduating from college.  I spent the first six years of my career working in the denim industry (Parasuco, Dex, Azzure).  Then I moved to NY and started Covet.  After 5 years of building that brand, I split from the backer and started Study on my own.  I wanted it to be a focused, sustainable sportswear brand that wasn't cluttered with extra styles or unnecessary items.

NN-  Study NY is a creative collective that you recently launched. What prompted you to embark on this journey and can you explain what the collective encompasses?


TS- I have been working with very creative and imaginative people in NY since I first moved here, photographers, graphic designers, filmmakers, illustrators.  I wanted to bring everyone together (hypothetically at first, if not physically) to create a forum where we could work together on projects, and independently on our own work



NN- You formerly worked at Covet as the Creative Director. What are some of the most evident differences working for someone and now being your own boss in regards to creating sustainable fashion?


TS- While it's nice to have someone supervising and directing the focus of a brand, it's liberating to work for myself and create only the pieces I really want to put out.  I can focus all my attention on a more edited collection now that I don't feel I'm trying to satisfy many different people.  I can just make the clothes I want to make.



NN- I was very intrigued to learn more about the unique concept behind your debut collection The Square Project. What exactly did the idea stem from?


TS- I crave constraint and love the idea of self-imposed limits.  I was working with the square shape prior to launching the Spring collection and wanted to see how far I could push the idea.

NN- From the beginning was it always imperative for you to show during NYFW and how did your relationship with the The Green Shows come about?


TS- I had worked with Bahar Shahpar on several projects prior to the Green Shows, so when she was brought on board to be the style director for the shows, she brought me along with her.




NN- Eco-fashion is becoming extremely popular at a faster rate more and more everyday. Aside from the current economic climate,what do you think holds designers back from creating sustainable lines or at least entertaining the idea?


TS- I think a lot of mainstream designers think it is difficult or expensive to source sustainable textiles and production methods.  While that may have been the case 5 years ago, it certainly is no longer relevant.  Factories and textile mills are tripping over each other trying to produce new sustainable products in order to keep up with the trend.  I hope more designers will start to re-examine their products and make an attempt to add at least one new sustainable item to their collections for next season.

NN- I see that you will be showing again this February at The Green Shows, can you divulge anything about your upcoming collection?


TS- Actually I won't be showing at the Fall 2010 Green Shows.  The first Green Shows were a very positive experience, but they made me realize that if I do show my collection again, it will not be with a traditional runway show and I'd like to use many more outlets than are currently available to me.  So I've withdrawn from the Fall shows in order to put together a presentation that more accurately represents the identity of the brand I'm trying to build.

NN- Why are you so passionate about sustainable fashion?


TS- I don't think it should even be an option any more.  I think all design should be sustainable.  From textile design to architecture, I think we all need to look at the everyday choices we make and products we create and question whether they are necessary.  If we deem them so, then they absolutely should be sustainable

Be sure to check back next week for a really special giveaway sponsored by Study NY!

Fresh N Fierce: Garderob

www.garderob.biz

NN: Hello ladies! Can you please introduce yourselves and  give us a brief background on your line Garderob

G: Hi Ebony! Garderob are Daniela Ivanova, Jivka Dacheva and Lyubomira Aleksieva. The brand was created in 2006, after starting as a student project. The first collections were shown not only in Bulgaria but also in expos in Vienna, Austria. Soon after we started to work with several shops there. All of our clothes are produced entirely in Bulgaria.

NN: You launched Garderob in 06, how have your designs and aesthetic evolved since then?

G: It is very important today to be flexible and to stay adequate to every happening change around us. Garderob style is described as discreet and elegant with clever detailing. Simple sophistication is acheived with light, flowing fabrics, drapery and clean silhouettes. Emphasis is placed on high quality and on a timeless independence of seasonally changing trends. We really focus our attention on these things every time and still keep them as our main principles.




NN: Do you ever find it challenging to compromise when designing since there are three of you?

G: Of course compromising is always a part of the process, but it is good that we are three because it means more ideas and ways to make them real and finished.

NN: Describe the type of woman you design for?

G: Sophisticated working woman who feels comfortable with herself.

NN: As emerging designers in Bulgaria, what types of challenges do you face? Give us an idea of your journey since graduating from The National Academy of Arts in Sofia to now producing your latest collection?

G: As a whole we face a lot of challenges. Taking  in to account that our country is one of the least developed in Europe, it is very difficult to start your own business and to be successful at it. Also people here in Bulgaria are still not open to embracing clothes made by young designers. We are developing, researching and making a name for ourselves at the moment. Definitely challenging but we are eager to see the end results.

NN: I think as an American I tend to believe that all fashion designers abroad ultimately are striving to have some sort of US presence with their line. How important if any is it to you as Bulgarian designers to break into the US market?

G: It would be great if we were able to sell our clothes in shops in the United States. It would be a challenge to make efforts selling our line in a new place, but I'm curious to know if it would work :)!




NN: What are some  misconceptions that people may have of fashion in Bulgaria and what would we be surprised to know?

G: For sure foreigners that are interested in fashion don't know a lot about BG fashion. But the good news is there are alot of new names coming and wanting to show their work in different world export and competitions, making the first steps!

NN: You are also stylists for some of the top fashion magazines in Bulgaria. Does your styling work influence your design work and if so how?

G: Not that much. But working with clothes from really famous brands in fact show us how good quality clothes must be made- with really, really, really good quality and a great idea!

NN: How important do you think it is to utilize the internet in correlation to your work?

G:  Very important it connects us with more people.

NN: And finally, a fun fact about each other?

G: Well to tell you the truth I can't remember so many funny facts. Several years ago we took part in one Vienna expo but didn't know that we would have nothing, no clothes hangers, no decoration, no mirrors, we were supposed to provide everything. We didn't have a car to travel from BG, so we weren't able to bring everything. We ended up decorating our area with several things we found around like cartoons making tables from them,cutting big paper birds and sticking them on the walls and other things from paper. In the end the expo was a huge success for us :)!